Göteborg to Oslo – the Bohuslän Coast

After our very interesting and enjoyable crossing of Sweden via the canal system, the next stage of Spellbinder’s summer was to leave Göteborg and head north up the west coast towards Norway. This region, much of which is termed the Bohuslän Coast, is a wonderful mixture of granite islands, forested mainland and old fishing villages. It is a delight to cruise, as most of the way up you are in sheltered channels and there are any number of places to moor and visit. On the whole Sue and I had fine weather, and we took our time, enjoying some splendid walks and scenery.

Leaving Göteborg, having gone under the 0930 main bridge opening

First stop was Marstrand, a rather upmarket place to where the great and good of Göteborg have repaired and built nice houses. While we were there we walked around the island and its castle, and enjoyed the shops and bars and general feel of the place.

Marstrand scenes
We came across a sculpture from my friend Sean Henry – we were to encounter another in Oslo (see below)
Walking (slightly decidedly and somewhat Britishly) past the naked men’s swimming area
The walks around Marstrand reminded me of Brittany

We really enjoyed Marstrand. There were various reenactments going on of late nineteenth century times, with people in period costumes and the odd vintage motor car, which stood out as the island is normally car-free.

We headed up the next day, stopping for a short while at Skärhamn and visiting a slightly disappointing art museum. Our next berth was on a local quay at Kyrkesund, a beautiful passage with houses on each side, and where the locals wished for payment either by cash or local Swedish bank transfer. Having neither to hand (Sweden, like the other Nordic countries, is becoming increasingly cash-free) we smiled and exchanged pleasantries with them, and they let us stay for free. There was not a great deal there, but we walked above the Sound and enjoyed the views.

Spellbinder’s berth at Kyrkesund
The view above the Sound, and some ancient cairns
On the way down I picked sloes which are now in the freezer. I will try and make Swedish sloe gin on my return

Continuing our passage north, the next step was Gullholmen, a delightful village which comprises a densely-packed island which had over the years benefited from various booms – herring, and oil from mackerel in particular. We found a wonderful old museum which was a sort of time-capsule of a skipper’s family house from the late nineteenth and early twentieth century, kept intact for future generations to see.

Stopped in time: an old sea captain’s house in Gullholmen, now a museum
Gullholmen scenes
Old fishing floats
We had a nice, if a bit bug-bitten walk around Gullholmen

After Gullholmen we headed over to Spellbinder’s birth place, Ellös. She was built here in 2005/6 and it is the first time that she has been back. We moored up in the Hallberg Rassy yard, and visited the spare parts shop – a real gold mine of bits and pieces, and I bought a few things which are quite difficult to find in UK, avoiding Swedish postage rates and post-Brexit charges.

Spellbinder back at her place of berth – the Hallberg Rassy yard at Ellös
The HR spare parts place – very useful to buy a few bits and pieces

After the delights of this shop we headed on, stopping in Fiskäbacksil for the night before heading to Smögen, another picturesque place. Like Marstrand, it has attracted investment and visitations from wealthy Swedes, but the architecture of the place has been kept very much in alignment with tradition.

Smögen views
A pilots’ lookout

We walked around the immediate vicinity and in the morning, in damp and windy weather, took a short ferry across to the beautiful island of Hållö, enjoying a fresh walk around. The island has a great lighthouse and some interesting geology.

Hållö island – a tiny harbour into which Spellbinder would have had difficulty entering
A so-called giant’s cauldron, caused by a boulder being pushed around in circles by ice over centuries, until it grinds a hole
Views of Hållö

We enjoyed Smögen and Hållö immensely. As we sailed north we took in a couple of quiet nights at anchor, to make a change, dropping the hook near Längö island and in Alvikken, Lammön. We also passed through the narrow Sote Canal.

Passing through the Sote Canal
Sunset at anchor beside moored yachts east of Längö

We stopped for lunch at Fjällbacka, known for its association with Ingrid Bergman, who had a holiday house on a nearby island, and who frequented the place.

Walking up a gorge in Fjällbacka
Views from the cliffs above Fjällbacka

Our final place in Sweden was the beautiful Kosten islands, where we took a berth and explored by bike. They are wonderfully unspoilt holiday islands, with many quiet spots to walk, swim and hide out. We could have spent a week there. As it was we explored just the south island, and Sue followed a snorkel trail.

Culinary highlight of this trip – baked cod in Sud Kosten
Local house, Ekenas Sud Kosten
We visited a great permaculture garden

The next day we were into Norwegian waters, and enjoyed a long sail up into the mouth of Oslo Fjord, stopping after a recommendation by some Norwegian sailors at the fortress at Oscarsborg.

Raising the Norwegian courtesy flag – the 8th courtesy flag of the summer (after Portugal, Spain, France, Netherlands, Germany, Denmark and Sweden). Good sailing breeze!
The fortifications at Oscarsborg. It was here that the Norwegian defences sank the German flagship ‘Blücher’ in April 1940, marking the end of the phoney war in western Europe
Looking north up Oslo Fjord from the site of the fortress commander’s bathing platform

It was a bit rainy, and we enjoyed the sight of slightly damp Norwegian opera-goers attending a concert in the fortress. The next day we enjoyed a walk around the island in slightly better conditions, and visited the military museum, before sailing north into Oslo itself, taking a berth in the city centre marina at Akker Brygge.

We have enjoyed Oslo in the short time we have been here, and yesterday Sue and I enjoyed the Munch museum, Ekeberg sculpture park and riding around the city centre on electric scooters.

Mobile wooden saunas with internal engines, which take you out into the fjord
Edvard Munch – self portrait. It’s a great museum and legacy to the Norwegian people
It was a bit of a scrum to see it, but worth it
The Oslo opera house, which is rather magnificent to my eye. Viewed from the top of the Munch museum
Tracey Emin’s sculpture ‘The Mother’ outside the Munch museum
The second of Sean’s sculptures, in Egeberg
In front of the Royal Palace
Nobel Peace Centre, just down from our berth

I have a couple more days to enjoy Oslo, and to get Spellbinder ready before new crew arrive and we endeavour to sail back to UK. This most recent cruise has been wonderful though, and I need to say a big thank you to Sue for accompanying me on it.

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