After our very interesting and enjoyable crossing of Sweden via the canal system, the next stage of Spellbinder’s summer was to leave Göteborg and head north up the west coast towards Norway. This region, much of which is termed the Bohuslän Coast, is a wonderful mixture of granite islands, forested mainland and old fishing villages. It is a delight to cruise, as most of the way up you are in sheltered channels and there are any number of places to moor and visit. On the whole Sue and I had fine weather, and we took our time, enjoying some splendid walks and scenery.
First stop was Marstrand, a rather upmarket place to where the great and good of Göteborg have repaired and built nice houses. While we were there we walked around the island and its castle, and enjoyed the shops and bars and general feel of the place.
We really enjoyed Marstrand. There were various reenactments going on of late nineteenth century times, with people in period costumes and the odd vintage motor car, which stood out as the island is normally car-free.
We headed up the next day, stopping for a short while at Skärhamn and visiting a slightly disappointing art museum. Our next berth was on a local quay at Kyrkesund, a beautiful passage with houses on each side, and where the locals wished for payment either by cash or local Swedish bank transfer. Having neither to hand (Sweden, like the other Nordic countries, is becoming increasingly cash-free) we smiled and exchanged pleasantries with them, and they let us stay for free. There was not a great deal there, but we walked above the Sound and enjoyed the views.
Continuing our passage north, the next step was Gullholmen, a delightful village which comprises a densely-packed island which had over the years benefited from various booms – herring, and oil from mackerel in particular. We found a wonderful old museum which was a sort of time-capsule of a skipper’s family house from the late nineteenth and early twentieth century, kept intact for future generations to see.
After Gullholmen we headed over to Spellbinder’s birth place, Ellös. She was built here in 2005/6 and it is the first time that she has been back. We moored up in the Hallberg Rassy yard, and visited the spare parts shop – a real gold mine of bits and pieces, and I bought a few things which are quite difficult to find in UK, avoiding Swedish postage rates and post-Brexit charges.
After the delights of this shop we headed on, stopping in Fiskäbacksil for the night before heading to Smögen, another picturesque place. Like Marstrand, it has attracted investment and visitations from wealthy Swedes, but the architecture of the place has been kept very much in alignment with tradition.
We walked around the immediate vicinity and in the morning, in damp and windy weather, took a short ferry across to the beautiful island of Hållö, enjoying a fresh walk around. The island has a great lighthouse and some interesting geology.
We enjoyed Smögen and Hållö immensely. As we sailed north we took in a couple of quiet nights at anchor, to make a change, dropping the hook near Längö island and in Alvikken, Lammön. We also passed through the narrow Sote Canal.
We stopped for lunch at Fjällbacka, known for its association with Ingrid Bergman, who had a holiday house on a nearby island, and who frequented the place.
Our final place in Sweden was the beautiful Kosten islands, where we took a berth and explored by bike. They are wonderfully unspoilt holiday islands, with many quiet spots to walk, swim and hide out. We could have spent a week there. As it was we explored just the south island, and Sue followed a snorkel trail.
The next day we were into Norwegian waters, and enjoyed a long sail up into the mouth of Oslo Fjord, stopping after a recommendation by some Norwegian sailors at the fortress at Oscarsborg.
It was a bit rainy, and we enjoyed the sight of slightly damp Norwegian opera-goers attending a concert in the fortress. The next day we enjoyed a walk around the island in slightly better conditions, and visited the military museum, before sailing north into Oslo itself, taking a berth in the city centre marina at Akker Brygge.
We have enjoyed Oslo in the short time we have been here, and yesterday Sue and I enjoyed the Munch museum, Ekeberg sculpture park and riding around the city centre on electric scooters.
I have a couple more days to enjoy Oslo, and to get Spellbinder ready before new crew arrive and we endeavour to sail back to UK. This most recent cruise has been wonderful though, and I need to say a big thank you to Sue for accompanying me on it.
Fantastic pictures Nick. Swedish Sloe Gin will be quite the flex when it’s ready to drink!
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What a fascinating trip!
Bon voyage for the homeward leg.
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