To Shetland

After our East Anglian adventures we turned left at Orford Bar and headed north, with Lerwick in Shetland the proposed destination. My crew Jonty and Neil have sailed with me a great deal and know Spellbinder well.

We had a good passage in largely light winds from behind us. We made good use of all our sails, including the Parasailor, which while a bit complicated to set up (it has 2 guys and 2 sheets) works very well in these conditions.

We flew the Parasailor by day and night
This photo was taken just before midnight – it is still pretty light this far north
Sunset under cruising chute

We did motor quite a lot though, but given that this was very much a delivery trip, it mattered not.

We were treated to some wonderful sunsets…
…and sunrises

The wildlife was wonderful – we came across a ‘raft’ of seals some 100 nautical miles offshore, and they seemed rather surprised by us.

Several dozen seals just hanging out, well offshore
wondering what we were doing in their territory

We also saw several minke whales, lots of dolphins and (we think) a small group of orcas.

Minke whale – they arch gracefully
Dolphin artistically captured by Jonty

Life on board was good, and Jonty set a high bar gastronomically by kicking off with some Orford oysters.

Orford oysters as a starter

Navigationally there were plenty of man-made objects to avoid, including extensive wind farms and oil and gas installations.

We passed by Hornsea 2, the UK’s current biggest wind farm. An adjacent one on Dogger Bank will soon be even bigger
There are still plenty of gas and oil rigs to avoid. Some are in use and others being decommissioned. We passed by the area of the Piper Alpha tragedy

We arrived having covered 520 nautical miles in under 4 days. Shetland appeared out of the gloom – it is often foggy up here in the summer.

Arriving in a somewhat gloomy Shetland
Berthed at Lerwick

On arrival, having paid our dues and replenished diesel and water supplies, we hired a car and had a couple of days to explore the main island. The first stop was to the south, where we explored a well known architectural site which has evidence of dwellings from prehistoric to more recent times.

Old dwellings at Jarlshof

We visited the lighthouse on the southern tip of Shetland, Sumburgh, which had several places to view the extensive wildlife.

Friendly puffins
Guillemots everywhere, happy to stand in the guano

On the way back we visited one of the many great beaches in Shetland, and Jonty duly swam.

St Ninian’s Bay
The water ‘wasn’t tropical’

Back in Lerwick we entertained friends of Neil’s for drinks, invited a fellow RCC member who stopped by on board, and slept soundly.

The next day we headed north, visiting the amazing cliffs at Eshaness.

Above and below – Eshaness cliffs

Shetland is more hilly than Orkney, and in many ways more varied and spectacular. The people are really quite mixed in origin, distinct from mainland Scotland, and strongly Norwegian in influence. We found everyone very welcoming. There are regular cruise ships though – when their inhabitants come ashore, on day release, the place is transformed.

Lerwick and her cruise ships

I leave Spellbinder shortly, and the plan now is for eldest son Tom to take her to northern Norway. I’ll invite him to be guest editor for that trip. Our plan thereafter is to explore the Lofoten Islands and cruise gently south down the Norwegian coast.

One thought on “To Shetland

  1. karenza069e4ca98a's avatar karenza069e4ca98a

    This is quite, quite fantastic Nick, so very well done to pull off successfully an adventure like this, the sharing of which is much appreciated too. Wonderful pictures of seals, with natural curiosity and orca and minky and not to mention Orford Oysters with a tipple. So interesting you are finding a flavour of Norway in those parts. Brilliant!

    Such a great trip to the East Coast, a jolly, fun and successful cruise, which one might never have thought of otherwise, fascinating visits, happy parties and such a beautiful coasta and sky-scapes. Thank you so much for all your efforts and months of meticulous planning with Rob and Emma all working so hard on our behalves. This and making it possible for lone foot followers to dip in and out of. It was particularly having nice that Sue was able to join us too.

    We are busy house clearing in melting temps in Somerset, and I can’t wait for this chapter to finish and get back to a semblance of normality. Unlike military people who are experts and have done this 22+ times, this is my first shot at it, and my inadequacies are readily apparent!!!

    All best to you and wishes for a safe onward passage for Jonty, thank you again for sharing this wonderful blog. Look forward to catching with you again soon,

    Karenza

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