I am immensely honoured to be the first ever guest writer for this esteemed blog, and will endeavour to live up to the usual standard of my Dad’s posts!

I was very happy to have the opportunity to sail Spellbinder for two and a half weeks earlier this month, from Lerwick, Shetland, to Bodø and then the Lofoten islands. The delivery crew comprised me, Tiger (longstanding friend and excellent offshore sailor) and new friend and medical colleague Ben. After flying into Lerwick, we were collected by Nick in a hire car and swiftly provisioned for the journey to come thanks to Tesco Extra.

The delivery crew at Dundee airport for a short layover

Farewell pint of Guinness

We set off the next day and had a relatively straightforward crossing to Bodø. The passage took 4 days and 30 minutes for almost exactly 600 NM. Highlights included excellent cooking by Ben (seafood linguine being the top pick), fantastic cheeseboards, dodging oil rigs, the midnight sun, and the ritual crossing of the Arctic circle (see below). We motored about a quarter of the time and pretty much used every sail configuration available for the rest of the passage, which was mainly downwind. There was, however, lots of fog so radar and AIS were keenly monitored.

The last views of Shetland

A quick trawl off East Linga/ Grif Skerry on our way out – no luck but much richer fishing grounds would follow

Tiger enjoying Ben’s seafood linguine

The sun attempting to set on the first night – it made it below the horizon but we estimated no true night hours on this whole delivery

Not too hard to avoid!

A sample of the grey mist/ mizzle that characterises the North Sea, also the Hydrovane putting in a good shift

Ben at the mast in more settled conditions

Crossing the arctic circle at around 1am local time. As Ben had crossed it before he officiated a ceremony for me and Tiger – involving some cold water and a blue nose

Tiger being inducted and the first landfall just starting to emerge behind (the Traena islands)

Blue whiteboard markers perhaps not as good as proper paint – a work on for next time

Heavily reefed and goosewinged with the pole – one of Spellbinder’s favourite configurations

Ben on the G&T seat, not quite the weather for it though

Arrival in Bodø with 20 knots of wind blowing us off – a test for my parking!

After arriving in Bodø we were quickly joined by Sasha. We presented ourselves to the local police station to have our fingerprints and mugshots done for the EES, then spent a couple of days enjoying the nearby sauna and reprovisioning. We also watched England prevail against DR Congo in an almost empty sports bar. The full cruising crew (George, Sam and Laura) joined a couple of days later and we set sail across the Vestfjord for Værøy, one of the outermost islands, minus Ben who went off on his own hiking holiday.

At Fauna Sauna with a sea plunge

The delivery crew – Ben, Me and Tiger – with obligatory Spellbinder merch

A very empty sports bar area, packed for the Norway games but less so for the one we cared about!

Lunch with the new crew

Heading out into the Vestfjord with Sasha on the helm

Reefing lessons from Tiger

Midnight sun shining as we came into Værøy, Sam on the winch

The Skipper wrapped up warm

We anchored off the West side of the main settlement in Værøy and spent the next day running and walking. Half the crew even had a pack of orcas come and swim around the boat!

Spellbinder at anchor and seen again from the ridge-line

A visit from an orca family, as captured by Laura

Our next destination was Reine, where we came alongside and climbed Reinebringen. Very scenic but super busy! Ben joined us by bus and caught up with us close to the top of the hill.

The beautiful Reine, with Spellbinder on the hammerhead pontoon

The view up the fjord to the North

Laura happy to finish our climb

After Reine we motored round to Nusfjord – a beautiful fishing village converted into a large hotel estate and museum complex. We met a lovely boat of Irish sailors who seemed to match, if not exceed, our own gin consumption.

Nusfjord

After Nusfjord we motored round to Ballstad and anchored in the upper reaches of the harbour. There wasn’t too much there except for a fairly decent sauna and we couldn’t find a bar open to watch England vs Mexico at 3am, so we watched it onboard.

The crew enjoying the sun and the amazing scenery

Good work by Sam and George – by motoring slowly around rocks we were able to get half a dozen mackerel or saithe on the line within minutes

Some crew members chose sunbathing over fishing…

After Ballstad we went to Henningsvær, and stayed two nights to enable Sasha to catch a bus to the airport, and to rest after a few days of sailing late at night. We visited Trevarefabrikken, a famous hostel and bar which was definitely a highlight, for karaoke and sauna.

Some heavier weather on the way to Henningsvær

Tiger doing important and thirsty work up the mast in Henningsvær

After Henningsvær it was time to head to Trollsfjord which was magical. We moored on the power station pontoon and had an evening fishing from the dinghy and from the rocks. After that we climbed up to a mountain hut for a 1am wood fired sauna. It was very quiet overnight in there with no other boats and just a few campers.

The view down Trollsfjord from the power station pontoon

Tiger and his fairly large Atlantic cod

George and I got up early and we left Trollsfjord at 5am to start the long sail through the Svellingsflaket archipelago and up the Ofotfjord to Narvik.

Leaving Trollsfjord in the mist

Arriving in Narvik

Lead line measurements to check depth in our berth before moving off the fuel pontoon – there is only about 1.0 m of depth!

We arrived in the Northern marina at Narvik and the harbourmaster was very accommodating when the card machine didn’t work – he paid on his personal card and drove me into town to withdraw cash to pay him back. After filling up with fuel and having a final dinner we said farewell and I parted ways with the rest of the crew. A short singlehanded trip to Liland later and it was time to do the laundry and hand over the boat back to Nick.

The Liland laundry operation – many thanks to the Liland harbourmaster Bjørn who personally took a bag of washing home to wash, then lent us these racks!

All in all this was a very successful trip and very enjoyable. Thanks to everyone who joined me at various times and thanks to my Dad for trusting me with Spellbinder!

Tom