Having arrived in Kiel with Rupert, Paul was my next crew, arriving a few hours after the former had departed. Our aim was to spend a week heading north out of the Kiel Fjord and exploring a few Danish islands en route to Copenhagen.

We managed to extricate ourselves out of the long Baltic box mooring into which we had been placed, and had a good day’s sail north and east, heading to the island of Aerø and in particular a little town called Aerøskøping. Although it rained while we were there, Paul and I enjoyed the sail – his first since our Hebridean and Orcadian adventures of 2021. We also enjoyed a town which has been preserved in its architecture and heritage, and looks much like it did 200 years ago.

Arriving just before the rain, we found the only place open was an Italian restaurant, and some delightful Italians looked after us with some fine pizzas. So much for our introduction to Danish culture! The next morning we took a free bus to the main town Marstal, where little was happening slowly, and waited for the front to pass, the wind to veer and the sun to come out. This it duly did, and we had a very breezy (3 reefs in the main) reach up a narrow channel and across to the old town of Svendborg, where we moored against the town quay. It’s a pleasant town, with a great maritime history, and it attracts tall ships from all around the Baltic region.

We strolled around the town, enjoying its heritage, before eating on board and getting an early night.

Sailing out of Svendborg Sound the following morning was a delight. There was not much wind, but the scenery was almost American, with large houses with lawns leading down to the water’s edge, and private pontoons with large yachts moored for the owners to look at.

Our destination was Femø, an island known for its jazz and women’s festivals, neither of which were taking place when we arrived, sadly. It was our first taste of a small harbour, with enough room, but only just. Parking a yacht is like parking a car in these places – you just pitch up and find a space. Payment is taken on an honesty basis using an app, and as we arrived we saw a very well stocked grocery store just 30 yards from our mooring. We also noted that the one restaurant on the island ran a free taxi service to and from the dock, and we made good use of it, dining in an agreeable old hotel overlooking the northern sound.

After Femø, we had a good long, downwind run under a couple of major road bridges and down and around various channels, ending up at a place called Klintholm on the island of Møn.

Klintholm was another delightful spot, where Paul and I practised our box mooring technique. It was a great pity that the only restaurant was putting on a 7 course gourmet tasting menu, with wines, and that there were a couple of tables unreserved. Paul and I didn’t demur, given that burgers and sausages had been taken out of the freezer for the alternative, on-board option. Highlights were garfish, chicken hearts and nasturtium flowers, white asparagus, crab and some delightful little puddings. The photos tell some of the tale. The chef had won ‘best Danish chef’ before, and we were rewarded by a fine meal with excellent and very friendly service.

Suitably fortified, we headed off early the next day, knowing we had a fair distance to cover to get to Copenhagen, and some head winds. It took a while, and we experienced quite a contrary current, but we managed to find a spot right in the centre of this fine city, in a little quay at Nyhavn. It is bustling as I write – a bank holiday (Whitsun), a carnival atmosphere, and fine weather.

On the way in, we dipped our ensign to the Danish royal yacht; the compliment was rapidly returned.

Thank you Paul, for being such excellent crew. It’s always good to sail with a pilot! Please come aboard again soon.

We loved the Danish islands we visited – all very laid-back, well run, well resourced and informally managed. We were the only Brits seen. Next stop – Sweden!