Sue and I returned to Killybegs after a three week break to find Spellbinder waiting for us, and only requiring a top up of food and water before heading off.

The coast of south Donegal is pretty spectacular, but we didn’t see a great deal of it as it was pretty beeezy and driech. A brisk motor out into a beamy sea and southerly force 6/7 was fairly uncomfortable until we were able to get the wind behind us and head north. We anchored to await the tide at Church Pool at Inishkeel, near Portnoo, resting a while and being visited by dolphins, before heading up to Burtonport.

It had been quite a rough first day (well done Sue for being so stoically resigned) but we were then able to relax, and spend the next day getting the ferry over to Arranmore, where we walked on what is a wild island stuck out at the north west tip of Ireland.

We enjoyed our walk to the north west tip of the island to the lighthouse, before returning to the village and listening to a visiting band at Early’s Bar. One of the songs (by Gerry Early) told of the rare RNLI Gold Medals awarded to a crew which went out in hurricane force winds in 1940 to rescue 18 shipwrecked sailors.

We returned by ferry and ate that night at the excellent Lobster Pot, a local restaurant. As everywhere, everyone talks to each other and we met some great people.

The next morning we set off again, heading out of the Burtonport north channel, which resembles parts of the Baltic – narrow channels strewn by rocks and houses almost within touching distance.

We headed up and round the NW tip of Ireland and entered Lough Swilly just as the heavens opened (again). We found a beautiful spot to anchor at Macamish Bay, sheltered by a cliff onto which a Martello Tower had been built.

We walked around a local golf course and took in the views across this beautiful lough.

The next day, with the necessary height of tide, we headed into Lough Swilly marina at Fahan. The aim was to hire a car for 3 days, picking up eldest son Tom and generally exploring. We were kindly given a lift across to Derry City airport by one of the marina staff, hired the car and headed back to visit Grianán of Aileach, an Iron Age stone fort with great views down the Lough.

The following day we had time to visit Springhill, a National Trust property – an old Plantation owner’s house, with all the history that goes with it. Having picked Tom up at Belfast International Airport, we then headed up to the Giant’s Causeway for a walk.

Mountains need to be climbed when I sail with Sue, and Donegal’s highest, Errigal, was our objective the next day. It’s a pretty popular spot, with much work having been done to reinforce the path up, and at the top at 751m the views are spectacular on a clear day. It was windy though on the exposed arrête near the summit, and we had to crouch at times to keep ourselves from flying across Donegal.

It was worth the effort for the views. We had had a nice drive through the Donegal countryside too, stopping briefly at Glenveagh on the way back.

Back at Swilly, we returned to Macamish and planned a day where Sue would take the car to have a bigger walk at Glenveagh before handing it back, while Tom and I sailed round to Portrush to meet her. Both parties had a good day, with our sail around Malin Head being a good one, with Tom skippering.

Our destination was Portrush, where we were met by old friend Paul, who hosted us royally. We had a great evening out in the town, being taken out to dinner and shown the sights.

Drinks at Portrush Yacht Club

After such a good night we needed a bit of a lie-in, and fortunately the east-going tide didn’t kick in until late morning. We slipped our lines at Portrush, sailing along the coast and passing the Giant’s Causeway, viewing it from another angle. Our destination was Rathlin Island, off the north east tip of the island of Ireland.

We loved Rathlin, walking out to the western lighthouse while Tom ran round the whole island.

The prospect of a downwind sail took us away from Rathlin after a couple of nights, but not before we had enjoyed a final lunch at the Manor House hotel. Our sail allowed us a rare outing for the cruising chute, and we enjoyed a fast tide-assisted sail down to Bangor, past the Glens of Antrim and Larne.

We had an admin day at Bangor the next day, shopping, refuelling and doing laundry, which adds up after a while. I also got a rigger to fix a broken spinnaker pole. Tom headed off to the airport, and our next crew Paul and Rosie arrived. That evening we had the very great pleasure of entertaining old friends Tony and Penny.

Rosie and Paul, fresh from travels in Vietnam, were afforded no quarter as the tide waits for no man or woman. We had an early 0600 start the next day, as we were aiming for Strangford Lough and its very tidal entrance. Get it wrong, and you just don’t get in or out. We sailed and motorsailed to meet the gate though, coming swiftly in through the Narrows, anchoring for lunch then taking a buoy up at the north end of the Lough, at Whiterock.

The Down Cruising Club were having an open day, and not only gave us a mooring buoy for free but also a RIB in which to gad about, and as much food as we could eat! Thank you Trevor. We enjoyed our stay there, walking around the local island, checking on Daft Eddy’s the well known pub, and having a good night’s rest.

En route out of Strangford we anchored at Ballyhenry Bay, walking down to Portaferry and taking the ferry over to Strangford. Lunch at Salthouse restaurant was delicious (thank you Paul & Rosie) and returning to Spellbinder we weighed anchor, recording 13.3 knots speed over ground with the tide, accompanied by two large dolphins as we were thrown out of the Lough. That speed must be a record for Spellbinder…

We had a good sail, then motor down the rest of the coast of County Down, arriving into Carlingford Lough marina, from where I write. Back in the Republic again, and tricolour raised as a courtesy flag. It has all been great fun – challenging at times with the tides and weather, but immensely rewarding. Dublin next…

(Some photos taken by Sue and Tom)